Well, thankfully, no clearance issues were found (I fired a single round, then inspected for flecks of copper and didn't find any). and fired a few rounds, the recoil reduction was substantial, however one thing I noticed shooting in the confines of the test range, was a rather strong puff of air that would blow from the muzzle end maybe 1/4 second after firing. I think much of this was due to the small indoor range, I've fired much bigger guns with much larger brakes but all those were open air.
The brake did exactly what I wanted it to, held the gun on target and reduced the "bounce" I normally got when firing it off a bipod.
Here's another picture of the brake up close before firing:
Hey Drew, thanks for the books. Sorry it had to happen in such aroud about way, though.
ReplyDeleteCould you explain more about drilling the hole for the muzzle brake? All my experience has been rather shallow compared to the drill diameter and I don't get how you keep the bit from wondering a few thou off the axis.
no matter what you're always going to have some variation in the hole, due to tool flexing, tool sharpness, and material quality (inclusions, hot spots). This is part of the reason I like stainless steels so much, as they are usually free of hot spots, and alloys like 303 and 304 in free machining versions make very small chips that drill bits can easily clear.
ReplyDeleteWhen I drilled this project, I started by boring a through hole using a cobalt steel #1 drill, and getting progressively larger. Next with a 1/4", followed by a 19/64" drill. I then drilled out the section for the threading, first by boring progressively larger, until I got to a 9/16" (largest I had that wasn't too big), then using a carbide boring bar to open the hole to .590". The hole was then counterbored to give relief for the threading on the muzzle (where the threads meet the rest of the barrel profile).
I then went back and ran a reamer through the bored hole with my back gears engaged using heavy cutting oil. The use of larger tools is what kept all my holes straight.
The main trick I employed with this project was drilling all the holes through first, finish reaming/boring before I removed the brake, or put any stress on it that could spin the part (tapping). I made one of these a few months ago, and made the mistake of trying to tap before I was done with the rest of the boring operations, and I accidentally spun the part in the chuck. Results were less than satisfactory, which is why I made this one.
Anyways, hope that answers the questions you had. And you're welcome, thanks for reading the blog.
Wow post thanks! We think your articles are great and want more soon. We love anything to do with word games/word play. 209 primers for sale
ReplyDelete